A look back at the Heroin Chic trend

In the mid-1990's, the controversial Heroin Chic look caused huge outrage and drew much criticism and scorn, accusing famous androgynous supermodels such as Kate Moss, Jodie Kidd and Jaime King, and films like Trainspotting and Permanent Midnight of heroin use glamorization. Even former US president Bill Clinton condemned the look by saying:

Fashion photos in the last few years have made heroin addiction seem glamorous and sexy and cool.

The apathetic grunge-inspired trend which was characterized by pale skin, dark circles underneath the eyes, dark red lipstick and angular bone structure has stepped onto the fashion scene as a reaction against the healthy and vibrant look whittled by elusive models like Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer at the beginning of the decade.

 Kate Moss for Vogue Italia by Peter Lindbergh.

A whole new generation steps onto the underground scene, mostly self-taught photographers who were very bored out of their minds with idealized models that look like people from another planet. The fashion industry was dying for something different and embraced the trend with a completely different end of the spectrum. All manner of editorials at the time flirted with the vision of decay, self-destruction and addiction and indulging in it in a wonderful and somewhat distorted way.